RunOut #66: The Art of Route Setting with Jackie Hueftle


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Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one … And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long.

Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male.

Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to

Show Notes

Setter Closet

“The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine

“Where are all the female route setters?”

“Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber.

The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics.

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