It was the deadliest string of shark attacks the world has ever seen. In 2011, sharks in Réunion, a beautiful island, way out in the Indian Ocean started biting people way more than ever before and with lunatic violence. The epidemic forced local surfers, politicians, and business owners into a proxy war with ocean lovers and conservationists worldwide, where long simmering tensions boiled over. Réunion: Shark Attacks in Paradise is the story of what happened on this beautiful island, and t ...
…
continue reading
内容由Laura Day at The Surf Société提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Laura Day at The Surf Société 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
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58. 30+ Years of Surf, Photography, and Finding Gratitude: Mattson Culbert on Facing Cancer and Life’s Challenges
Manage episode 455989642 series 2836081
内容由Laura Day at The Surf Société提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Laura Day at The Surf Société 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
After spending over 30 years chasing waves and documenting epic California swells, Mattson Culbert—a surfer, photographer, and filmmaker—faced one of the biggest challenges of his life: a thyroid cancer diagnosis. 🌊 But instead of letting it hold him back, Mattson embraced vulnerability, rediscovered gratitude, and deepened his connection to the ocean.
To me, though, he’s more than just a talented photographer and lifelong surfer—he’s like a big brother, a kuya, the surf uncle we all wish we had, full of wisdom, humor, and the kind of perspective only decades in the water can bring.
In this episode of Confessions of a Surf Lady: The First Women’s Surfing Podcast™, Mattson and I talk about the evolution of surf culture, the resilience we learn from the ocean, and how his cancer journey reshaped his outlook on life. This conversation goes beyond the epic swell—it’s about family, gratitude, and the lessons we take with us both in and out of the water.
Resilience Through Challenges: How Mattson’s journey with thyroid cancer reshaped his perspective on surfing, life, and legacy.
Cultural Shifts in Surfing: A deep dive into surf culture in the ‘90s and how it compares to today’s more inclusive scene.
Respecting the Ocean: The importance of knowledge, humility, and community in and out of the lineup.
Resources:
- Follow Mattson: @mattsonculbert
- Try a membership at The Surf Société with 7 days free.
- Shop Dip and get 15% OFF with the code "confessionsofasurflady" at checkout at Dipalready.com
- Follow us your host Laura Day: @confessionsofasurflady
- Follow The Surf Société: @surfsociete for surf lady tips from #thesurflab inside the membership
Confessions of a Surf Lady, is a women's surfing podcast that is supported by our amazing partners and listeners like you. This means we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you when you make a purchase through the links provided. Thank you for being a part of our community and supporting the podcast.
Send me a Message! Be sure to leave your contact info.
Confessions of a Surf Lady, women's surfing podcast, is supported by The Surf Société, our unique digital women's surfing platform where we come together to Learn More. Surf Better. Live Happy. Learn more at Surfsociete.com
67集单集
58. 30+ Years of Surf, Photography, and Finding Gratitude: Mattson Culbert on Facing Cancer and Life’s Challenges
Confessions of a Surf Lady | The First Women's Surfing Podcast™
分享
Manage episode 455989642 series 2836081
内容由Laura Day at The Surf Société提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Laura Day at The Surf Société 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
After spending over 30 years chasing waves and documenting epic California swells, Mattson Culbert—a surfer, photographer, and filmmaker—faced one of the biggest challenges of his life: a thyroid cancer diagnosis. 🌊 But instead of letting it hold him back, Mattson embraced vulnerability, rediscovered gratitude, and deepened his connection to the ocean.
To me, though, he’s more than just a talented photographer and lifelong surfer—he’s like a big brother, a kuya, the surf uncle we all wish we had, full of wisdom, humor, and the kind of perspective only decades in the water can bring.
In this episode of Confessions of a Surf Lady: The First Women’s Surfing Podcast™, Mattson and I talk about the evolution of surf culture, the resilience we learn from the ocean, and how his cancer journey reshaped his outlook on life. This conversation goes beyond the epic swell—it’s about family, gratitude, and the lessons we take with us both in and out of the water.
Resilience Through Challenges: How Mattson’s journey with thyroid cancer reshaped his perspective on surfing, life, and legacy.
Cultural Shifts in Surfing: A deep dive into surf culture in the ‘90s and how it compares to today’s more inclusive scene.
Respecting the Ocean: The importance of knowledge, humility, and community in and out of the lineup.
Resources:
- Follow Mattson: @mattsonculbert
- Try a membership at The Surf Société with 7 days free.
- Shop Dip and get 15% OFF with the code "confessionsofasurflady" at checkout at Dipalready.com
- Follow us your host Laura Day: @confessionsofasurflady
- Follow The Surf Société: @surfsociete for surf lady tips from #thesurflab inside the membership
Confessions of a Surf Lady, is a women's surfing podcast that is supported by our amazing partners and listeners like you. This means we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you when you make a purchase through the links provided. Thank you for being a part of our community and supporting the podcast.
Send me a Message! Be sure to leave your contact info.
Confessions of a Surf Lady, women's surfing podcast, is supported by The Surf Société, our unique digital women's surfing platform where we come together to Learn More. Surf Better. Live Happy. Learn more at Surfsociete.com
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类似 Confessions of a Surf Lady | The First Women's Surfing Podcast™ 的节目
It was the deadliest string of shark attacks the world has ever seen. In 2011, sharks in Réunion, a beautiful island, way out in the Indian Ocean started biting people way more than ever before and with lunatic violence. The epidemic forced local surfers, politicians, and business owners into a proxy war with ocean lovers and conservationists worldwide, where long simmering tensions boiled over. Réunion: Shark Attacks in Paradise is the story of what happened on this beautiful island, and t ...
…
continue reading
Journalist Bruce Martin gives racing fans an inside look at the exciting world of the NTT INDYCAR SERIES in this fast-paced podcast, featuring interviews with the biggest names in the sport.
…
continue reading
Hosted by Laura Cathcart Robbins, a writer and a recovery thriver and survivor, Laura found herself in an all too familiar position. In September 2018, she was the only black woman in the room at Brave Magic, a famed writer’s retreat. After it was over, she wrote about her “only one” experience in The Huffington Post and comments started flooding into her DM. These comments were from people from all races, ethnicities, creeds, and nationalities who had felt “othered”. Laura beautifully inter ...
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continue reading
A live podcast show, that’s like a morning radio show, just much better. Live from 6h00-8h00 Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Clever, funny, outrageous and sometimes very silly. Come for the guests, stay for the laughter. Also check out our other shows on The Real Network for more entertainment.
…
continue reading
As She Rises brings together local poets and activists from throughout North America to depict the effects of climate change on their home and their people. Each episode carries the listener to a new place through a collection of voices, local recordings and soundscapes. Stories span from the Louisiana Bayou, to the tundras of Alaska to the drying bed of the Colorado River. Centering the voices of native women and women of color, As She Rises personalizes the elusive magnitude of climate cha ...
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continue reading
Imperfect Paradise is an award-winning weekly narrative podcast showcasing California stories with universal significance, hosted by Antonia Cereijido. Each deeply reported story is driven by characters who illuminate aspects of American identity and underscore California's reputation as a home for dreamers and schemers, its heartbreaking inequality, its varied and diverse communities, its unique combination of dense cities and wild places. New episodes premiere Wednesdays, with broadcasts o ...
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continue reading
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continue reading
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continue reading
Love is more than you think. From the creators of Criminal. New episodes twice a month. Part of the Vox Media Podcast Network.
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continue reading
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continue reading
Player FM -播客应用
使用Player FM应用程序离线！
使用Player FM应用程序离线！
