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#344 The Gift & Curse of Todos Santos - Coco Nogales

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Manage episode 399039540 series 1441507
内容由Kyle Thiermann提供。所有播客内容(包括剧集、图形和播客描述)均由 Kyle Thiermann 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品,您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal

At eight, Coco Nogales sold gum on the street in Mexico City. He was a runaway, sleeping in bushes and bus stops, and if the police caught him, they would throw him in a juvenile detention center, so he hid at night and worked on the streets to survive. Eventually, he had enough money to buy a bus ticket to Puerto Escondido, a small town with one of the most dangerous big waves on the planet.

The watershed moment of his career came when he was 17, photographed surfing a gigantic wave at Puerto Escondido. He says it changed his life forever. Determination and following every opportunity led him to where he is today. Now recognized as one of the top big wave surfers in Mexico, he has traveled the world from Hawaii and South Africa and many places in between.

During this podcast, Nogales tells the story of nearly drowning at Todos Santos, a big wave in northern Baja, and the lessons he learned through his recovery.

If you dig this podcast, will you please leave a short review on Apple Podcasts? It takes less than 60 seconds and makes a difference when I drop to my knees and beg hard-to-get guests on the show.

You can join my newsletter on Substack. It’s glorious. Send voice memos and hate mail to thiermann@substack.com

Writing by Kyle Thiermann is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Get full access to Kyle Thiermann at thiermann.substack.com/subscribe

  continue reading

390集单集

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Manage episode 399039540 series 1441507
内容由Kyle Thiermann提供。所有播客内容(包括剧集、图形和播客描述)均由 Kyle Thiermann 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品,您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal

At eight, Coco Nogales sold gum on the street in Mexico City. He was a runaway, sleeping in bushes and bus stops, and if the police caught him, they would throw him in a juvenile detention center, so he hid at night and worked on the streets to survive. Eventually, he had enough money to buy a bus ticket to Puerto Escondido, a small town with one of the most dangerous big waves on the planet.

The watershed moment of his career came when he was 17, photographed surfing a gigantic wave at Puerto Escondido. He says it changed his life forever. Determination and following every opportunity led him to where he is today. Now recognized as one of the top big wave surfers in Mexico, he has traveled the world from Hawaii and South Africa and many places in between.

During this podcast, Nogales tells the story of nearly drowning at Todos Santos, a big wave in northern Baja, and the lessons he learned through his recovery.

If you dig this podcast, will you please leave a short review on Apple Podcasts? It takes less than 60 seconds and makes a difference when I drop to my knees and beg hard-to-get guests on the show.

You can join my newsletter on Substack. It’s glorious. Send voice memos and hate mail to thiermann@substack.com

Writing by Kyle Thiermann is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Get full access to Kyle Thiermann at thiermann.substack.com/subscribe

  continue reading

390集单集

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