#106 Felipe Camargo — An Unlikely Path To The Top, Finding Mentors, Training Hard By Yourself, Establishing Next Level Routes in Brazil, and Giving Back

The Testpiece Podcast

#Sports #Testpiece #Climbing #Boulder #Competitive #Coaching #Rock Climbing #Rockclimbing #Timkang #Goodtogreat

7:38

Last summer, something monumental happened. One of Uncuffed's founding producers, Greg Eskridge, came home after more than 30 years in prison. In this episode we’ll bring you back to that emotional day last summer when he walked out of the San Quentin gates, free at last. Our work in prisons is supported by the California Arts Council, the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation, independent foundations, and donations from listeners like you. Learn more, sign up for Uncuffed news, and support the program at www.weareuncuffed.org Follow us @WeAreUncuffed on Instagram and Facebook Transcripts are available within a week of the episode coming out at www.kalw.org/podcast/uncuffed…

大约1年之前 1:36:36

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Felipe Camargo is one of the top climbers in our sport with sends up to 9b and V15. That’s impressive… But what’s more impressive is that he began climbing Brazil where there was no professional climbers, no routes past 8b+, and no modern training facilities.

Felipe managed to send the iconic 50m 9a+ Papichulo by mainly training on a 3x3m spray wall at 85+ degrees! And even more incredible, is that he didn’t have other climbers of his caliber there to push him. He was the trail blazer.

His story of going from unknown Brazilian kid to the first professional climber in South America is amazing and sounds almost like a fairy tale. But his hard work and passion is the real secret behind some of his “lucky” breaks.

Over his career Felipe has gone on to establish Brazil’s first 8c, 8c+, 9a, and 9a+! You can see some of these in his latest film, a breakout hit, Tropical Lines. He also won the Netflix series Ultimate Beastmaster. He has taken his earnings and time and poured in back in the Brazilian community to help the next generation of climbers. To give them opportunities that he didn’t have.
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145集单集

#106 Felipe Camargo — An Unlikely Path To The Top, Finding Mentors, Training Hard By Yourself, Establishing Next Level Routes in Brazil, and Giving Back

The Testpiece Podcast

published 大约1年之前

MP3•单集首页

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

145集单集

#Sports #Testpiece #Climbing #Boulder #Competitive #Coaching #Rock Climbing #Rockclimbing #Timkang #Goodtogreat

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#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’ 14:44

3天之前14:44

14:44

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale 2:03:56

7天之前2:03:56

2:03:56

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever 1:45:03

14天之前1:45:03

1:45:03

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing ! SHOW NOTES: Bushido Climbing Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers 1:47:51

21天之前1:47:51

1:47:51

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance . This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy. Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers. Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode. SHOW NOTES: Rob Hunter’s Instagram Tyler Nelson’s Instagram Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance Tyler’s YouTube Channel Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling” Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution 17:06

24天之前17:06

17:06

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #140 for context! SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/ Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel : https://www.youtube.com/@Climbveez Austin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140 : https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHk Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA’ing NE’s First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers 1:52:11

28天之前1:52:11

1:52:11

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf , as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move. Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast. SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s Instagram Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel Beta labs (Austin’s Company) Mad Rock Decoy Holds Mimic Holds Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned: Noah and Benn Wheeler Adam Shahar Ross Fulkerson Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#139 Ross Fulkerson — 70ft Whips, Filming “Between The Tides”, Expectations Of A Pro-Climber, and How To Deliver Peak Performance When Everything Is Against You 1:37:49

大约1年之前1:37:49

1:37:49

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” . Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells. This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture. SHOW NOTES: “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” Filmed and Edited by Raul Onyett Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram Ross Fulkerson’s YouTube Ross’ Previous Testpiece Episodes: Podcast #3 Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133 Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#138 BONUS [Kai Whaley] — Secret Projects, His Favorite Place To Climb, Rocklands/Switzerland Ticklist, and Being a Good Climber 17:32

大约1年之前17:32

17:32

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #137 for context! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Kai Whaley’s Episode, #137 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#137 Kai Whaley — Youngest To Climb V10/12/16 And 17 Soon?!, NOT Being A Comp Kid, Live Streaming Highballs And V16s, and BOARDS 1:43:27

大约1年之前1:43:27

1:43:27

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai." Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent! Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17. Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Board Climb’s mentioned in the episode: “Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024 “Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45 “Menacing Creation”, TB2 Brian Squire’s Board Account Videos mentioned in the podcast: Off Leash A Little Life Squ(h)amish Testpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode: Adam Shahar’s episode Martin Keller’s episode David Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World 2:13:33

大约1年之前2:13:33

2:13:33

Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts. Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be. Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy! SHOW NOTES: Timothy Kang's Instagram Timothy Kang's YouTube Focus - A Bishop Highball Project Tim's Best Day, Testpiece Podcast Tim's Most Recent Testpiece Podcast Noah Wheeler's Testpiece Podcast Adam Shahar's Testpiece Podcast Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He’s Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who’s Going To Be Next On The Process 12:50

大约1年之前12:50

12:50

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16) , and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it. We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #134 for context! SHOW NOTES: Zach Galla’s Instagram The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow Pretty Tall on Mellow Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77 Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies 2:02:43

大约1年之前2:02:43

2:02:43

Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here . Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16 , one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15’s all over the world and FA’d a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa" ! Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex” . Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love. SHOW NOTES: Zach Galla’s Instagram Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77 The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow Pretty Tall on Mellow Best Believe It on Tension Lost Tapes on Mellow Unstoppable by Chief Keef Love Sosa by Chief Keef Confluence on Mellow DelayMyBelay on Instagram Austin Ernst on Instagram Zach Galla’s Board Account Brain Squire’s Board Account BD Hex Team BD Hex Instagram Toinon Beigne Noah Keithley Sean Faulkner Finn Stack Bobby Vannoy Antigrav Noise Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#133 Island Boys — The Boys Go To Mallorca, Coaches Coaching Each Other, Using Fear To Your Advantage, and “Pessimists Sound Smart; Optimists Get Rich” 2:03:33

大约1年之前2:03:33

2:03:33

A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top! We’ve got Ross Fulkerson , Marco Giacomangeli , and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley . These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well. Each of these athletes are active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits. SHOW NOTES: Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram and YouTube Channel Marco Giacomangeli’s Instagram Bryce Belshin’s Instagram Mind To Motion Al Rangel Testpiece Podcasts Episode #120 Episode #7 Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece Episodes Episode #124 Episode #4 Episode #3 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting 15:42

大约1年之前15:42

15:42

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked” , and what the name truly means. We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow ! SHOW NOTES: Nathaniel Coleman’s Instagram No One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on Mellow Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63 : Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

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#131 Nathaniel Coleman — V17 FA “No One Mourns The Wicked” [Defying Gravity Sit], The Newest And Best V17 In The World, and Breaking The Rules to Go from Good to Great 1:52:04

大约1年之前1:52:04