Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
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内容由Steven Dimmitt提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Steven Dimmitt 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
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EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
Manage episode 401731696 series 2638497
内容由Steven Dimmitt提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Steven Dimmitt 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Crimpd!
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
297集单集
分享
Manage episode 401731696 series 2638497
内容由Steven Dimmitt提供。所有播客内容（包括剧集、图形和播客描述）均由 Steven Dimmitt 或其播客平台合作伙伴直接上传和提供。如果您认为有人在未经您许可的情况下使用您的受版权保护的作品，您可以按照此处概述的流程进行操作https://zh.player.fm/legal。
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Crimpd!
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
297集单集
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类似 The Nugget Climbing Podcast 的节目
Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
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continue reading
Are you looking for more happiness, success and vitality in your life? Get inspired each week with Wellness Expert, Integrative Medicine Fellow & Keynote Speaker, Kristel Bauer. Live Greatly shares empowering conversations about life, wellness & success talking with top experts, athletes, celebrities, CEOs and other incredible individuals. Tune in for insights to thrive personally and professionally. It’s time to awaken your ultimate potential! Disclaimer: All of the information shared on th ...
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The Art of Charm is where self-motivated people, just like you, come to learn from the company’s coaches about to how to master human dynamics, relationships, and becoming your best self with the help of Johnny and AJ, the company’s founders. Johnny and AJ bring their 11 years of coaching experience from their famous Bootcamps, where they host clients in Los Angeles from all over the world and they share their stories, best practices and themselves on this weekly podcast. Not only does The A ...
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